MY FORMER LIFE - PART II        

4..               PLAYING THE SOLDIER                   

 

I am young, I am twenty years old; yet I know nothing of life but despair, disappointment, fear, and fatuous superficiality cast over an abyss of sorrow. I see how peoples are set against one another, and in silence, unknowingly, foolishly, obediently, innocently hurt one another.

 

Once again I run from my surroundings and without telling either my family or friends, reach Meerut where they are seeking recruits for Brahman’s Regiment. A great war has broken out in Europe and an Infantry Division from the Indian Army is required to fight in France. Unhesitatingly I go for the recruiting parade and am taken in without ant reluctance even though I am a pseudo-Brahmin.

 

In the list of the world’s worst self-inflicted tortures, training as an infantry soldier must come Number One. Rudely awakened at dawn, rushed to intensive Physical Training for an hour, a quick breakfast of Poori Alu, an hour’s drill with rifle, then on to Weapons Training in Field Service Marching Order that included negotiating an Obstacle Course and charging with bayonets and all punctuated with abuses, shots and even man-handling by Instructors. Some sort of education in the afternoon, compulsory hockey or football in the evening, a quick dinner and then on to guard duties on alternate nights. Sometimes we glimpse with awe officers who come on horses to check on our training and all the staff and recruits become numbed on seeing them as if bitten by snakes. Whatever these officers order is carried out instantly and unquestioningly. Well, that is an incarnation worth yearning for.

 

But this torture at least deadens the pain of parting from Devika.

After an intense 16-weeks torture I am assigned to 3rd Brahmans

In August 1914 we move to Jhansi as part of Jhansi Brigade. I am given three days leave to visit my old parents at Shikohabad. At the end of the visit when I take a train for Jhansi I get acquainted with a very distinct and very real kind of love which essentially differs that with Devika. In the inter class compartment that I enter I observe a pretty, fair and slightly plump girl sitting with a rather overawed middle-aged man. Opposite them are sitting two Muslim boys in black shervani and are apparently eying the girl.

 

As soon as the girl and her companion see me in uniform their eyes shine up and they invite me to sit next to them. The older man is the girl’s uncle and escorting the girl back to her parents’ home at Delhi – apparently she stays When the Muslim boys get down at Aligarh railway station, the girl – Shashi is her name - confides to me she was afraid that the boys would harass or even molest her and saw me as angel coming to rescue her. I am overwhelmed and fall in love with her instantly. She insists I visit her at Delhi before taking my train to Jhansi and gives me her street address.

 

At Delhi railway station I, take a shower at the Watng Room, leave my kitbag at the Left Luggage office and take a tonga to Shashi’s Daryaganj home. At her home I am welcomed by her uncle and her father but see her not at all. Just as I get up to leave I notice Shashi

coming out of a door from one end of the sitting room and exits from the door at the other end. As she walks past she stealthily gives me a glance and a smile that makes me almost faint. On reaching Jhansi I write to Shashi complaing that I delayed my departure from Delhi to Jhansi and took endless trouble to find her house and all that I got was just one glimpse of her. She writes back this all, which was really all for her and me, was the height of her happiness. She also writes that she was engaged to marry and was unlikely to see me again in this birth.

 

Thus I leave with the Jhansi Brigade for England to fight in the war. Aquainted with two very distinct and very real kinds of love, which have scarcely anything in common, although both are very fervent, and both remain largely unfulfilled, I leave with a sense of emptiness in my heart.

 

Germans have attacked Belgium and Holland and we are moving to France. We now become part of Meerut Division and are shipped to England. The place looks like heaven and women apsaras. But we are not allowed to mix with them. Our lot is to fight at Ypres.

The bond between soldiers is very important. At the battlefield, comrades are introduced, and their closeness is illustrated. Their defiance of another accused soldier is as a group, and so is their reading mail together on the toilet. Training camp at Hampshire was an awful experience, and largely meaningless, but it forged a tight bond between me and my friends. This bond is part of what helps us survive at the front.

The downtime between trips to the front is when each man's individual  personality comes out. They bicker and argue, but that is part of the camaraderie. Here we see the group as individuals, but not in a way that breaks up the strength of the group.

The boys are excited because Havaldar Ram Singh, the man who united them through hate, is now on their territory. They become closer through their reactions to bad things, like to the front or to Ram Singh.

After a night attack by Germans many of us are injured and some killed. "Do I walk? Have I feet still? I raise my eyes, I let them move round, and turn myself with them, one circle, one circle, and I stand in the midst. All is as usual. Only the Sepoy Inder Singh has died. Then I know nothing more.

Let the months and years come, they can take nothing from me, they can take nothing more. I am so alone, and so without hope that I can confront them without fear. The life that has borne me through these years is still in my hands and my eyes. Whether I have subdued it, I know not. But so long as it is there it will seek its own way out, heedless of the will that is within me.

My friend Devendra receives shrapnel from the German Artillery on 31st December 1914, on a day that was so quiet and still on the whole front, that the army report confined itself to three words: Nothing to report. He had fallen forward and lay on the earth as though sleeping. Turning him over one saw that he could not have suffered long; his face had an expression of calm, as though almost glad the end had come.

At Forest Park Hotel, Brockenhurst, Hampshire, which has been converted into a hospital for us, I feel very separated from the people who don't understand the front. My encounters with people and memories of my past only make me miss my comrades, who are now the only people I can truly relate to. Even the visit of Queen Mary means nothing to me.

 

After convalescence we are rushed to Neuve Chapelle for assaulting Germans. Neuve Chapelle is the battlefield of the Indian Corps' most famous, and costliest, action in 1915.  I bond to an enemy soldier. The man I kill becomes my comrade, for the time when he is trapped and alone. I again bond to the enemy when separated from my own comrades.

One by one, the men closest to me at the front are picked off and killed. More and more my strength, my comrades, is gone, leaving me alone.

I, alone as the last of this group, feel that nothing more can be taken from me, because the thing that gave him strength, my comrades, has already been taken. I give up because the war has taken my only friends who understand me. The miserable have no other medicine but only hope. I have hope to live, and am prepared to die.

Innocence Again, with this quote, I come to the idea of the permanent damage that has been done to my soul. I will never get my innocence back, no matter what I do.

Happiness and satisfaction come from stolen food and survival. On some level I am sad that I gain so much pleasure from food and rest, that I have been stripped so bare.

The war has placed a wall not just between me and my past, but between me and my family. Even Devika has been reduced to a translucent image. But as soon as the war ends, the Army has no need for me.

On my release from the Army and return to the family home I wish I had never come home because it has only made me aware of how isolated I now am from my family and my townsfolk. The only person I can enjoy being with was Girish, a fellow solider. I am powerless to help my sick mother, who cannot understand what I have been through. I leave half of my savings from the Army service and leave home again to wander around the Country to heal my soul – perhaps never to return to the place of my birth with which I find no attachment in my heart.

5.TRAVEL NOTES OF A WANDERER

I am convinced that because of my unattractive looks, dim-wit, lack of education, and lethargic nature I have been rejected by my family, the love of my life and even the Army. At the age of twenty-five when my education should have been complete I am given the parting advice from my commanding officer to retrain myself. Luckily Roman Hindustani, a language that was taught to me in the Army, comes into use. The local Hindi newspaper at Agra publishes my article on fighting in France and agrees to pay me enough to keep my body and soul together if I travel length and breadth of India on a shoestring budget and write from different cities. Apparently they will pay for reading about my wretched and destitute living experiences!

 

What follows are some selected paragraphs, translated in English, as they were published in the ‘Dainik Usha’ from Agra.

 

Benaras. 17 January 1919.

I begin my journey by traveling IIIrd class in train to a place where the whole India goes for pilgrimage – Benaras. Alas, what I find most bewildering at the centre of this Hindu Holiest place is a mosque built by the fanatic Muslim, Aurangzeb. Lines of beggars stare askance at faithful who approach the famous ghats to pray towards the rising sun. But today everybody is talking about the Hindu University which the “most successful beggar” – as dubbed by Gandhi -  Pandit Madan Mohan Malaviya, has founded after working on the project for years

The University started functioning from 1 October 1917 with the Central Hindu College as its first constituent college. In July, 1918 the College of Oriental learning and Theology was opened and in August 1918, the Teachers' Training College. The first University examinations were held in 1918 and today is the first Convocation. The Chancellor of the University, Maharaja Krishna Raja Wadiyar IV of Mysore  comes on an elephant to preside over and address the Convocation. He also performs the opening ceremony of the Engineering College Workshop buildings.

 

                                                           

Benaras is holy and dedicated to Shiva. Hindus have revered this site as a sanctuary for thousands of years: thus, it has become a truly holy place.  Melodious Sanskrit chants hang over the Ganges as if they too belonged here. I enter the Vishwanath temple and the atmosphere of devotion brings tears to my eyes. I spend many hours in the labyrinth of streets which link temple to temple. The idols hold fast the attention of the worshippers and do for them precisely what the contemplation of the absolute does for the Rishi Munis. The value of idols depend solely on the fact that they help to concentrate the attention of the praying individual; it is impossible for most people to concentrate their souls except in reference to a visible object. A recent great example of such a soul is Ramakrishna who in a state of ecstatic rapture had long ago become one with Parabrahma, but remained in his normal condition a worshipper of Kali.

 

Three ways lead to the ultimate goal: the path of knowledge (Gnana Yoga), that of love (Bhakti Yoga), and that of work (Karma Yoga). The path of love is regarded as the easiest: he who loves does not think of himself for the time being; his soul opens out and the man who has become entirely free of himself has by the very fact found his God.

 

Towards sundown I head again to the Ghats to view a saint who has sat for ten years in a sort of pigeon-house which he only leaves once a day in order to bathe in the Ganges and through the whole of this period he has never said a word. Almost every Hindu thinks of renouncing the world at a moment’s notice, but this one has actually done it. If only he would speak, he could reveal much. The desire for communication disappears in proportion to the advance in inner life. Even so, people are grateful for his existence, they count themselves blessed that he is among them, and they deem it an honour to be allowed to contribute to his sustenance. One can only be truly of use to others by giving them an example. And the Yogi, who is beyond all earthly fetters, beyond labour and work, beyond egoism and altruism, beyond in- and disin-clination, presents the highest example of all. His existence among men is more valuable than the life of the most useful of workers.

 

A number of pilgrims have come here to die on the banks of the Ganges. It is surprising that many more have not followed Prince Siddhartha’s example and become Buddha. But these sufferers suffer so little. Most of them are superlatively happy to be allowed to end their days near the holy Ganges. The certainty of salvation sweetens all their suffering.

 

I lodge at a Dharamshala in Sarnath. A field of ruins marks the place where once a great Buddhist monastery functioned. Withdrawal of state patronage and vandalism by the Islamic invaders brought it to ruins. A museum stands nearby where some of the rescued works of art are displayed. Among them the Ashoka emblem of three lions – it really looks majestic. I watch an Indian Army Colonel with his wife, his son and two pretty daughters browsing through the museum artifacts.  Ashoka lion would have been more appropriate on his epaulets than the crown which now adorns them

 

I walk across to the Stupa erected by Ashoka to mark the place where Buddha delivered the first of his sermons which became famous. I meditate in the serene atmosphere. Buddhism is great for the man who is weary of life and does not wish to be born again and again. Not for me the Nirvana of Buddha. I would rather come back again and again with improved karmas to live in peace and love and to spread sweetness and light.

 

Delhi – 1st May 1919

I have to change trains at Cawnpore to reach Delhi. To make use of a better bathroom I try to go the Waiting Rooms on the first floor – as I frequently did in England - but am stopped dead by the notice “Indians and dogs not allowed”. On reaching Delhi I am made aware of a much greater calamity that has befallen my countrymen.

 

On the afternoon of April 13, 1919, some 10,000 or more unarmed men, women, and children gathered in Amritsar's Jallianwala Bagh ( "garden"; but before 1919 it had become a public square) to attend a protest meeting, despite a ban on public assemblies. It was a Sunday, and many neighbouring village peasants also came to Amritsar to celebrate the Hindu Baisakhi Spring Festival. General Dyer positioned his men at the sole, narrow passageway of the Bagh, which was otherwise entirely enclosed by the backs of abutted brick buildings. Giving no word of warning, he ordered 50 soldiers to fire into the gathering, and for 10 to 15 minutes 1,650 rounds of ammunition were unloaded into the screaming, terrified crowd, some of whom were trampled by those desperately trying to escape. According to official estimates, nearly 400 civilians were killed, and another 1,200 were left wounded with no medical attention. Dyer, who argued his action was necessary to produce a "moral and widespread effect," admitted that the firing would have continued had more ammunition been available.

The governor of the Punjab province supported the massacre at Amritsar and, on April 15, placed the entire province under martial law. Viceroy Chelmsford, however, characterized the action as "an error of judgment The Jallianwala Bagh massacre turned millions of moderate Indians from patient and loyal supporters of the British raj into nationalists who would never again place trust in British "fair play." Liberal Anglophile leaders, such as Jinnah, are being displaced by the likes of Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi, who advocates non-cooperation.

Mosques of Delhi lack deeper expressive values that emanate from the temples of Benaras. The work of art there helped me in concentrating – here art means nothing at all. Yet the faces of the faithful, who belong unmistakably to the blood of the Hindus betray a superior expression. The Quran tells them so. Hindus pray in temples anywhichway as a means to self-realizations. Mussulmans pray five times a day, line upon line, making same gestures simultaneously much in the manner of a contingent of British Army marching past King George V. This explains a Mussulman’s lack of progressiveness, his inadaptability and his lack of inventive power. The soldier has only to obet his orders; the rest is in Allah’s hands. Fortunately, Islam in India is developing more and more towards the Indian spirit; hopefully in the long run blood would prove its worth.

But for present blood is flowing the other way. The Mussulmans have formed a special party for Khilafat, by which they demand that the custody of Islamic holy places in he Middle-East be restored to the Khalifat of Turkey whom they accept as leader of all Mussulmans. And Gandhi is supporting this movement. Even the most liberal Hindus are wondering what this all has to do with treatment of Indians under the British rule?

Aligarh – 31st December 1920
The East India Railway deposited me at a comparatively clean Railway Station among the sound of hawkers selling tea in earthen pots and saboni( a special Aligarh product containing nothing but sugar). After putting my bedding at the Dharamshala near the Company Bagh (Company refers to East India Company although the Company has ceased to exist for the last 20 years or so) I take an Ekka ride to the Muslim University premises. Surprisingly the University area is as clean as New Delhi in contrast to the filthy town which one reaches through the newly paved Railway Road.

Four days back inauguration of the Muslim University took place. Her Highness Sultan Jahan Begum, Wali Bhopal the first Chancellor of the University came for the occasion. The veiled woman is a fighter. For years she fought with her own mother even when he mother was the ruler of Bhopal. She has married twice and is now fighting a casi in Privy Council to disinherit her older son, Obaidullah and make the younger son Habibullah as the next ruler of Bhopal. For no reason I seem to be obsessed with this woman and with the students here who exude an arrogance which is foreboding. Seeds of Muslim communalism seem to have planted here well.

Good news comes from Nagpur. Courageous Lala Lajpatrai had returned from America and had been elected to preside over the special session of Indian national Congress at Calcutta. He has now been confirmed as the president and has thrown his lot in support of Gandhi’s Non-cooperation programme

But the event of the Century takes place in far away Paris. A living thing is born. With these words, United States President Woodrow Wilson presents the first draft of the Covenant to the nations attending the Paris Conference of 1919 and to those around the world. This Covenant is to establish an international organization that would promote peace and security throughout the world and provide a forum through which the different interests of nations could be peacefully resolved. President Wilson names this living thing the League of Nations. After the four devastating years of the First World War, an Armistice was finally signed in 1918 and the nations around the world began to realize that some sort of new international system had to be established to prevent the recurrence of so great a disaster. This hatred of war spread throughout the civilized world and eventually leads to the formation of the League of Nations.

To do more research on these subjects, on this last evening of mine at this town I head towards the newly built Lyall Library. Kalicharan, the Librarian asks me to talk to the Honorary Secretary who has just entered the premises. The young man, Amarnath by name, is very pleasant, knowledgable and tells Kalicharan to give me all the help and then asks me to to join him at the adjacent Library Club for a drink. When I reach the Club Amarnath is playing a complicated card game with three others. He asks me to watch them and try to understand this ‘very absorbing’ game called Bridge. I resolve that one day I will try to learn it. When I reveal to him that I am lodged at a Dharamshala he insists that I have dinner at his home. We walk along the lonely Grand Trunk Road, turn into the Railway Road (on which he indicates a house with red doors that he is planning to rent for a princely sum of eight rupees a month) and then across a Tonga Stand to Gulluji-Ki-Gali whre he lives with a cousin. He is twentyone and has just got married to a lovely sixteen year old Kamla. As I take my leave after the hastily cooked vegetarian dinner, Kamla asks me to come again the next day –New Year’s Day. Very sadly I decline because I have a train to catch next morning. But I promise to return on another New Year’s Day even if it takes me a dozen years to do so.

 

Bhopal – 15th December 1921                                                                                                                                                                        I am here to cover the visit of the Prince of Wales to Bhopal. The short, stout and veiled Begum of Bhopal turns out to watch the polo match which he plays. The Begum appears to be very angry that the Prince lost. He is a guest. He should have been allowed to win. After the match her three granddaughters are – they are small - presented to the Prince of Wales, and the stingy Prince only gives them one chocolate each which he picked up from the presentation table. He came actually to shoot tigers. Each and every member of his staff got a tiger or two, and the Prince of Wales didn't even get one, he didn't even see one. Perhaps his stinginess is matched by his poor luck.

In the evening I head towards Chowk to loiter in the main shopping area of the City. I notice some boys harassing an old ugly looking Muslim beggar woman who has a begging bowl in her hands. She is greatly relieved when I chase the boys who were even throwing pebbles at her. The boys tell me that she is a mad woman. Nevertheless, I walk with her till she is safe from the hooligans. I ask her who she was and where was her home. Spontaneously she says she is Begum of Bhopal, heading towards the Palace and enquires who I was. In the spirit of the pervading madness I reply I am the Commander-in-Chief of the Indian Army and was on my way to meet the Prince of Wales! Both of us laugh and keep walking together.

 

Understandably, she says she is fed up of this life of a thousand worries and an unattractive face and if there is to be a next life she would like to be born a beautiful princess. And I say if there is to be                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             a next life I would like to be born to be an army officer and perhaps fall in love with her. “Inshaallah”, she says.  As Shaukat Palace comes in sight she asks me to stop, turn back and go away while she walks up to the Palace porch. I stop and watch her. She tells the security guard to let her in. He said 'ja, ja, burri, tu qidar jarahee ho iss waqt?" [Go away, old lady, where are you going at this time?] She argued and argued, but he would have nothing of it. He made her sit at the porch. The woman seems to be living in her dreams, has hallucinations about being the Begum of Bhopal. I walk back to my Dharamshala.

 

But why not dream? After all it has been just announced in Oslo that a Nobel Prize has been awarded to a dreamer, Albert Einstein by name, for his Theory of Relativity. The conception, as I understand it (relatively), goes like this: all uniform motion is relative, and that there is no absolute and well-defined state of rest–from mechanics to all the laws of physics, including both the laws of mechanics and of electrodynamics, whatever they may be. I shall stick to my dream of being a soldier rather than a scientist.

 

 One Maulana Hasarat Mohani tabled a resolution in the Congress session seeking Complete Independence, whispers a fellow correspondent. But Gandhiji responded by asking the Congress delegates to “in all confidence reject his proposition”.

 

Dehradun – 13th March 1922

The Prince of Wales Royal Indian Military College has been inaugurated today by the Prince of Wales himself in this sprawling area of   located astride the road to Mussoorie, marking a capitulation of the British Empire to growing pressure for Indianization of the Officer Cadre of the British Indian Army.

 

But the news pervading the atmosphere is of the arrest of Gandhi for sedition as a consequence of the massacre some policemen by a  3000 strong crowd at Chauri Chaura, Gorakhpur. To me this is the direct result of the nonsense of Non-cooperation Movement started by Gandhi. By supporting Khalfat Movement he has drafted Muslims in this humbug of non-cooperation. Somehow this non-cooperation with he British Government got translated to protesting against the sale of liquor (which is taboo to Muslims) in which two Hindus and one Muslim got killed. Thereupon the crowd set fire to the police building killing 23 policemen. Gandhi asks all Indians to end the Non-cooperation movement, and goes on a five-day fast to absolve him of what he perceived as his role in inciting the attacks. Gandhi felt that he had acted too hastily in encouraging a revolt against the British Raj, while not emphasizing the importance of ahimsa (non-violence) and not training the resisters enough. Due to his fast and the exhortation of Congress leaders, Indians give up civil resistance. Here is a man who can force his will on all Indians by his unique methods. For the first time I start respecting him.

 

Calcutta – 8th November 1923

The city is abuzz with the personality of Deshbandhu Chittaranjan Das. He was recently released from jail and began to advocate what he called non-cooperation from within, meaning the Government should be fought by Congressmen from their seats in the Legislative Councils. This lead to the formation of Swaraj Party and the Congress recognized the party as its own body. Elections to the Bengal Legislative Council are held. The Swaraj Party, led by C. R Das, becomes the largest single party capturing 46 seats out of 139 in the Provincial Legislature. Das practically begins a dictator in Bengal. One Subhash Chandra Bose is made the Municipal Commissioner.

 

I manage entry into an ancient palace of the Tagores for a musical night. On this memorable night I observe noble and spiritualized faces of the Tagores. Among them Abanindranath, the painter, and Rabindranath, the poet. The latter appears like a guest from a higher, more spiritual world. Ancient paintings are hung in the lofty hall. Te sound of Rabindra Sangeet reverberates the hall. The music embodies very richly and gorgeously coloured profundity.

 

Thanks to my Journalist credentials, I am even permitted a tour of Fort William where the Army is garrisoned. I wander in the sprawling garden of Kitchener House that has been recently converted into an Officers’ Mess.

 

Chitor  - 13th October 1924

The proudest memories of the proud Rajpus are connected with Chitor. Here Badh Singh, the head of the Deolia Pratapgarh, fell in the fight against Bahadur Shah of Gujrat; it was here that Padmini, the beautiful queen for whose sake Alauddin Khilji stormed the fortress, committed johar, together with all the Rajput women when all hopes of victory had vanished, while Bhim Singh died with the whole of his tribe on the ramparts. Here the bride of Jaimal of Bednor fought along wit her husband against the legions of Akbar.. But the Hindus know nothing of these events.  They don’t even care about the major anti-Hindu riots that occurred last month in Kohat in NWFP. In three days (September 9-11) of riots over 155 Hindus and Sikhs were killed. The entire population of Hindus and Sikhs living there had to flee for their lives.

 

Lahore session of Muslim League presided by Mohammad Ali Jinnah, who has left the Congress to join the League, passes resolution on a demand for a federation with greater provincial autonomy. One senses separatism is brewing rapidly in the Muslims.

 

As I go down from the fortress on an elephant after praying at the ancient Shiva temple I am no longer confined to space. It is a strange condition that I experienced last on the Western front during the great war when I thought I was on the verge of death. I am glad that my life did not end in that far-off land for the cause of foreigners. If I have to die early I would like to give up my physical body for my motherland. For I am convinced of the reality of my being that is for ever blissful.

6.                                                                    SEEKING A HERMIT’S LIFE

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bombay – 15th March 1925

Six years of traveling, witnessing and reporting of mostly depressing events has made me again want to run for another life. Rejected by my own family, my first love and the Army, belonging to no one and no one belonging to me I wish to wander off to the much talked-of Self-Realization of Hinduism. When I tell my Editor of my plans, he is delighted and says he will keep supporting me so long as I keep writing my experiences. This is an offer I cannot refuse. My first destination is the complex of Ajanta-Ellora which I have seen advertised at every Railway Station. I need to travel to Bombay in order to catch a train for Aurangabad whence a bus will transport me to Ajanta. At the Agra Railway Station I buy my IIIrd class ticket and a book from Wheelers’ bookstall to read during my journey. Choice of the book was easy; the salesman handed over a new book that had just hit the stalls titled “A passage to India” by E.M. Forster. By the time I reach Bombay’s VT station I have finished the book – it confirms my own impression of modern India. What follows are some thoughts on the book.

What really happened in the Marabar caves? This is the mystery at the heart of the novel, the puzzle that sets in motion events highlighting an even larger question: Can an Englishman and an Indian be friends? "It is impossible here," an Indian character tells his friend, Dr. Aziz, early in the novel.

"They come out intending to be gentlemen, and are told it will not do.... Why, I remember when Turton came out first. It was in another part of the Province. You fellows will not believe me, but I have driven with Turton in his carriage--Turton! Oh yes, we were once quite intimate. He has shown me his stamp collection. "He would expect you to steal it now. Turton! But red-nosed boy will be far worse than Turton! "I do not think so. They all become exactly the same, not worse, not better. I give any Englishman two years, be he Turton or Burton. It is only the difference of a letter. And I give any Englishwoman six months. All are exactly alike."

Forster's novel follows the fortunes of three English newcomers to India--Miss Adela Quested, Mrs. Moore, and Cyril Fielding--and the Indian, Dr. Aziz, with whom they cross destinies. The idea of true friendship between the races is a radical one, and he makes it abundantly clear that it is not one that either side welcomes. If Aziz's friend, Hamidullah, believes it impossible, the British representatives of the Raj are equally discouraging.

"Why, the kindest thing one can do to a native is to let him die," said Mrs. Callendar.
"How if he went to heaven?" asked Mrs. Moore, with a gentle but crooked smile.
"He can go where he likes as long as he doesn't come near me. They give me the creeps."

Despite their countrymen's disapproval, Miss Quested, Mrs. Moore, and Mr. Fielding are all eager to meet Indians, and in Dr. Aziz they find a perfect companion: educated, westernized, and open-minded. Slowly, the friendships ripen, especially between Aziz and Fielding. Having created the possibility of esteem based on trust and mutual affection, Forster then subjects it to the crucible of racial hatred: during a visit to the famed Marabar caves, Miss Quested accuses Dr. Aziz of sexually assaulting her, then later recants during the frenzied trial that follows. Under such circumstances, affection proves to be a very fragile commodity indeed.                                                                                                                                                                       A Passage to India is a troubling portrait of colonialism at its worst, and is remarkable for the complexity of its characters. Here the personal becomes the political and the breach between Aziz and his English "friends," Forster correctly portraits the reality in India.

The book changes my mind. My ‘Self-realization’ will have to take place side by side with I doing a little bit for my country. On arrival at the Victoria Terminus of Bombay I watch the first ever electric train of India begin its short journey from Victoria Terminus to Kurla. There always room for new things in the world. And most great things have a modest beginning like this electric train. I shall imbibe some spirituality and become a follower of Gandhi.

Ellora – 18 April 1926

Three great religions have carved their spirit side by side into the rock: Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism. As I step inside the Temple of Kailas which has been carved out of a single rock in all its amazing complexity I bow my head to our ancestors who dedicated their lives for a hundred years or more to create this marvel of worship n three levels inside the precincts. I begin to shudder. But the divine chants that must have pervaded the atmosphere once have long since died. Now some Mohammedan inhabitants hold their sheep market here. The dead live only in stone. I cannot tear myself away from the temple. I come out and climb on the top of the rock, survey the view which the designer of the temple must have done a thousand years earlier, meditate for a short while and then descend to visit other caves on either side of he Kailas where two other great religions – Buddhism and Jainism – have carves their spirit. Now I understand why Hinduism always advocated that all religions lead to God and are to be respected. I wish Christianity and Islam had followed the harmonic existence with Hinduism rather than the antagonistic one they have adopted.

Pondicheri - December 1927

At the Madras convention of the Indian National Congress, Jawaharlal Nehru tabled a resolution seeking complete Independence as the goal of the Indian people. Nehru himself said later, “I am inclined to think that Gandhiji disliked the resolution”.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                One Dr. Keshaw Hedgewar has recently founded an organization called Rashtriya Sevak Sangh for uniting all Hindus. He led the Ganesh procession playing music while going through the mosque road in Nagpur.  This caused a riot which left over four hundred people dead. He does not believe either any leader of Congress or even he himself could successfully lead India during these critical times. He approaches Sri Aurobindo to return to Politics. But Aurobindo has immersed himself completely in spiritualism and declines. The central theme of Sri Aurobindo's vision is the evolution of life into a "life divine". In his own words:        "Man is a transitional being. He is not final. The step from man to superman is the next approaching achievement in the earth's evolution. It is inevitable because it is at once the intention of the inner spirit and the logic of Nature's process".

He has also written a small book entitled The Mother as a kind of "instruction manual" for the practice of Integral Yoga. He explained his view of money and wealth: "Money is a sign of universal force, and this force in its manifestation on earth works on the vital and physical planes and is indispensable to the fullness of outer life. In its origin and its true action it belongs to the Divine. But like other powers of the Divine it is delegated here and in the ignorance of the lower Nature can be usurped for the uses of the ego or held by Asuric influences and perverted to their purpose."

He says that it is possible, not only to transcend human nature but also to transform it and to live in the world as a free and evolved human being with a new consciousness and a new nature which could spontaneously perceive truth of things, and proceed in all matters on the basis of inner oneness, love and light. Paradoxically, it is an Englishman, Rudyard Kipling, who writes a poem which may help humans to become evolved human beings:

If you can keep your head when all about you
Are losing theirs and blaming it on you;
If you can trust yourself when all men doubt you,
But make allowance for their doubting too;

If you can wait and not be tired by waiting,
Or, being lied about, don't deal in lies,
Or, being hated, don't give way to hating,
And yet don't look too good, nor talk too wise;
 
If you can dream - and not make dreams your master;
If you can think - and not make thoughts your aim;
If you can meet with triumph and disaster
And treat those two imposters just the same;

If you can bear to hear the truth you've spoken
Twisted by knaves to make a trap for fools,
Or watch the things you gave your life to broken,
And stoop and build 'em up with wornout tools;
 
If you can make one heap of all your winnings
And risk it on one turn of pitch-and-toss,
And lose, and start again at your beginnings
And never breath a word about your loss;

If you can force your heart and nerve and sinew
To serve your turn long after they are gone,
And so hold on when there is nothing in you
Except the Will which says to them: "Hold on";
 
If you can talk with crowds and keep your virtue,
Or walk with kings - nor lose the common touch;
If neither foes nor loving friends can hurt you;
If all men count with you, but none too much;

If you can fill the unforgiving minute
With sixty seconds' worth of distance run -
Yours is the Earth and everything that's in it,
And - which is more - you'll be a Man my son!

Mahabalipuram - November 1928

To end my pilgrimage of Southern India I have come to this unique coast. A work of art and devotion has been created on every stone of this bare and empty isle of sand. Monolithic temples have been carved out of every hill. The waves of high tides repeatedly roll over rise on the steps as if to pay homage to the slumbering gods. Only a few poor fishermen and a handful of Brahmins live where thousands hands hammered, chiseled, bored and removed debris once upon a time. The news that India is still excelling in some field comes from Amsterdam, Netherlands where for the first time India competed at the 1928 Summer Olympics. The men's field hockey team has won the gold medal.

Here five temples have already been swallowed by the sea and the days of the main temple – that of Vishnu – seem to be numbered.  Buddha was right when he said nothing is stable on the earth. And no body or any work is irreplaceable. There is no point in clinging to the past. We all have to do our best today so that we can also find salvation in our own ways just as our ancients did in their own way – sacrificing their labour beforehand rather than cherishing the fruits of their work. That was living in the spirit of the great doctrine of Bhagwat Gita.

Darjeeling – 31 December 1929

Yesterday when I arrived, the sky was overcast, but again and again a sharp wind would scatter the grey shrouds. This morning at sunrise I waited patiently at the Tiger Hill to glimpse Kanchanjanga. Just when I was about to give up, I raised my eyes to look at the gloomy sky again and was delighted to behold eternal snows on the horizontally spread beautifully and uniquely shaped Kanchanjanga. I was overwhelmed with this unearthly mountain on the top of which no man has ever stepped. Joyously the spirit leaps over all boundaries and roams over the mountain range. Not too far away in the same range of Himalayas is Kailas, the paradise of Shiva where I have to be one day.

When it feels heavenly just to glimpse this beautiful mountain, to be deeper in them must be like obtaining Nirvana. No wonder all the great Hinduscriptures like Vedas, Upanishads, Ramayana and Mahabharat were written by our sages in the Himalayas. Some even say that these scriptures actually descended from the Supreme Being to these sages. So elevated I feel that no problem disquiets me.

To elevate Jawaharlal Nehru on their shoulders were present Pathans from North Western Frontier Province at Lahore where Nehru moved a resolution of complete Indian Independence which was adopted

 by the Indian National Congress. One hopes that these Pathans are not weaned away by the separatists.

 May the light of the Supreme Being that touches me here also remain their guiding light rather than

 some obsolete ideas of exclusiveness.

At noon the clouds began gathering again and I decided to trek back to my dharamshala in Darjeeling. Soon I saw a white man following me. He was also at the Tiger Hill at sunrise. He soon caught up with me and tried to make conversation with me. But that was not too difficult – he spoke even worse English than me! Apparently he is from Germany and has almost same mission as I except he speaks in highly technical language and looks to be near 50 years of age. With almost a bald head his long goatee beard and the hair on the back and sides of his head are almost white. His name is Hermann Keyserling and says he has founded a “School of Wisdom” in Germany. He talks incessantly but I happen to agree with his conclusions and now consider leading a hermit’s life unnecessary. One can live in this humbug of life yet progress towards self-realization. What I gathered from his monologue and could keep in my memory is reproduced below.

It seems to me today as if my goal lay in Mahatmadom; as if I were right to cast off the skin of humanity; for already there is nothing human which ties me in my innermost self. And just as Mahatmas are supposed to be, thus should and could supermen be (I detected a bit of Aurobindo in this).  In their sphere none of the laws is valid which determine earthly greatness. They teach that humility is more than pride, that ambition is evil that all struggle after earthly happiness is a mistake and that only he shall gain life who loses it.... The Mahatmas demand from him who wishes to follow them the renunciation of everything which here is regarded as worthy to be striven after. It seems to me today as if all earthly purpose had died out in me, as if all vanity, all striving after elevation and fame, were dead. The air of Himalayas is marvelously stimulating and it is easy to think of the problems which have troubled me all my life.

I assume that in sphere of life, there are higher, but not highest manifestations. The perfected figure of man is unattainable, and none of us will ever reach the perfection of a Buddha. To attain one’s maximum should be the aim of man’s life. This then is the truth which is at the bottom of the theory of evolution. We must strive after perfection, although each perfection, which has been attained, seen from the next highest standpoint, appears as a limitation. And at the times when my wandering faith makes a halt at the Karma doctrine, I would gladly believe that my present fate signifies the punishment for a period in which I was all too extravagant a demon.

The times of blind belief are over. Where faith in the absolute value of definite manifestation has passed away, where authority is no longer binding, where ritual is no longer a support, where only that which is understood appears absolutely real, only two possibilities are left open: one of them is of destruction. We will die of decomposition if we do not discover any means of salvation, for the old ones are no longer effective, and a descent from a natural levels only possible in the form of a fall. The other, the positive possibility – and the only one – consists in our recognizing the fact of the new natural level, and in erecting a higher ideal upon this. We must understand perfectly, become absolutely free from dogma and prejudice, and realize a synthesis of humanity above personality where empirical manifestations are used only as a means of expression.

Now I can do all and everything in the spirit of the ‘one’ so that all and everything must contribute to my eternal welfare. What should discourage me, now that I know? What should impede me? Neither disease nor misfortune, neither my own failure nor that of others, neither virtue nor vice. Everything in life serves the man who knows. Every one becomes exemplary in case he attains his supreme perfection within the limits given by nature; that is what I could, what I must attain to.

How sublime is the myth that Brahma was at play when he created the world. I know nothing more serious than the way real children play. The existence of a God is only conceivable as play. Thus Shakespeare looked upon it when in the mood in which he created his comedies. They are the work of a god, not of a man; of a being for whom tragedy has ceased to exist, for whom law and fate are empty words, because he has come to know nothing beyond the rules of the game.

We had now reached Darjeeling and the German thinker went to his room at Windmere Boarding House at the Observatory while I rushed o my shelter at the local dharamshala. He had made up his mind to strive for perfection and I for merely following a Mahatma – Gandhi – in his struggle for independence of India.  



 
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